Journals and Books in Archaeology and Craft

Journals

Here are some useful links to academic journals on archaeology. I’ll do my best to make sure the links are current.

Many of the journals linked here are open access, but many aren’t. If you need to access an article, many public libraries do have free access to journals, in addition many universities in the US often allow public access to their libraries. Another resource is to check academia.edu. The site provides open access to articles, theses, dissertations, and conference proceedings.

Note that this is by no means an exhaustive list of the journals out there!

Archaeology

American Journal of Archaeology

Antiquaries Journal

Antiquity

Archaeometry

Assemblage – The Sheffield Graduate Journal of Archaeology (OPEN ACCESS!)

Berkshire Archaeological Journal (OPEN ACCESS!) Note that the journal runs from 1878 to 1980

British Archaeology (OPEN ACCESS!)

Cambridge Archaeological Journal

CBA Research Reports  (OPEN ACCESS!)

Current Archaeology

Derbyshire Archaeological Journal

Discovery and Excavation in Scotland (OPEN ACCESS!)

European Archaeologists 

Expedition

Ethnoarchaeology

EXARC (OPEN ACCESS!)

Internet Archaeology

Journal of Archaeological Method and Theory

Journal of Archaeological Research

Journal of Archaeological Science

Journal of Archaeology of Northwest Europe (OPEN ACCESS!)

Journal of the British Archaeological Association

Journal of Community Archaeology and Heritage

Journal of Conservation & Museum Studies (OPEN ACCESS!)

Journal of Heritage Tourism

Journal of the Historical Metallurgy Society

Journal of Irish Archaeology

Journal of Material Culture

Journal of Open Archaeology Data (OPEN ACCESS!)

Journal of Social Archaeology

Journal of World Prehistory

London Archaeologist (OPEN ACCESS!)

Medieval Archaeology

The Minnesota Archaeologist

Open Access Archaeology Journals (OPEN ACCESS!)

Oxford Journal of Archaeology

Papers from the Institute of Archaeology (OPEN ACCESS!)

PAST (OPEN ACCESS!)

The Post Hole (OPEN ACCESS!)

The Proceedings of the Prehistoric Society (PPS)

Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland (OPEN ACCESS!)

Public Archaeology

Scottish Archaeological Journal

Scottish Archaeology Internet reports (OPEN ACCESS!)

Somerset Archaeological and Natural History

Surrey Archaeological Collections (OPEN ACCESS!)

Sussex Archaeological Collections (OPEN ACCESS!)

Transactions of the Hunter Archaeological Society

Transactions of the Leicestershire Archaeological and Historical Society (OPEN ACCESS!)

Visual Anthropology

World Archaeology

Yorkshire Archaeological Journal

 

Craft

Folklore

The Journal of Modern Craft

World Art

Books

These are a few of the books I’ve found useful. Again, it is nowhere close to being exhaustive, but I plan to update it regularly.

Note: Clicking on the image will take you to Amazon.com where I get a slight kickback if you buy anything when you visit the site (even if it isn’t the same book you clicked on). Yep, this is blatant monetising, but I don’t have advertising on the site and any source of income helps pay the bills for the site. That said, these are all books and authors that I have in my library and highly recommend.

Books on Craft in General

The Craftsman by Richard Sennett is the book to start with for understanding craft, how it works and how it is learned.

The Search for Structure by Cyril Stanley Smith is a joy to read. He explores structure, art, and craftsmanship from an engineering point of view, but also as one who sees the world as a work of craft.
One of my favourite quotes comes from this book:

I asked a blacksmith famous for his superior penknives to tell me the difference between iron and steel. “What’s the difference?” he replied. “What is the difference between an oak tree and the willow—they have different natures and one must adapt to them.” He did not accept the suggestion that some material absorbed from the fire’s charcoal might have something to do with it, and he would not have understood a word of any lecture I could have given him on diffusion, crystal structure, and phase transformations; yet he could make a good knife and I could not. (Smith, 1981, 348)

 

Books on the history of metalworking

 Ronald Tylecote is probably the author to start with when studying archaeo metallurgy. His work covers the beginning of metallurgy to the Industrial Revolution, exploring the development and changes in technology and experimental work with smelting and furnaces.

A history of metallurgy follows the development of metalworking from ancient Egypt (at the time he wrote, these were the earliest known examples) through Medieval Europe. Despite its age, this is the most comprehensive volume on ancient metalworking and a good start in learning the prehistory of metals.

The following two books are nearly identical. Don’t feel as if you are missing out if you don’t own both. Both are excellent references and the chapters are divided by metals, so all the information about copper is provided together, as is silver, tin, gold, lead, and iron.

Books on experimental archaeology

John Coles is the granddaddy of academic experimental archaeology. He did write the book on it, and back in the 1970’s worked to make it a more organised discipline. These books are excellent introductions to experimental archaeology.

Books on metalworking

Knowing archaeological metals is one thing, but knowing how to work with them, their practical properties, and hands-on experience is essential. These are the books that I feel are essential essential guides for practical metalworking.

Tim McCreight’s books are great bench guides that are well organised for quick reference. They are also great textbooks for metalworking.

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Making bag bellows

Bag bellows might be the oldest form of bellows used. We don’t know for certain because they are made entirely of organic materials, and so none survive in the archaeological record. They are still used for iron forging in parts of Africa and South Asia. Plus they have the advantage of being portable, lightweight, and easy to make. You can be as “authentic” as you want, using only wood and leather, or you can use more readily scrounged materials like vacuum cleaner hoses and cement bags. There is a remarkable video of Kenyan metalsmiths using bellows made of cement bags here.

Traditionally bag bellows are made of soft leather and the usual description is that a single bellow is made from one goatskin. The bellows below are made with upholstery fabric. At the time I made them, leather was too much for my budget. I do find it ironic that in the Bronze Age leather would have been readily available, but hand-woven fabric would have been exorbitant. So, these are my ostentatious display of wealth bellows. They are sealed with a good coating of linseed oil that made them both waterproof and airtight and have worked well for many years now.

 

My very posh bag bellows
My very posh bag bellows

 

Designing the bellows

How big the bellows you make will depend on what’s comfortable for you. I’ve used very large bellows and ones so small you’d think that they’d never produce enough air to get the job done, but they did remarkably well. What is important is that the size works for you. You’ll be sitting on the ground, or close to the ground (I like a padded log or a short tree stump myself). Sit down on the floor and raise your arm a little over waist high. You’ll be pumping your arms up and down for hours, so it’s good to find a height that is comfortable for you so that you don’t wear your arms out. Measure that height or get a good idea of how high that is. You’ll want to add a few more inches because you will want to have the bellows rest on the ground. If you lift them too high, the sides will collapse and you won’t be able to trap the air in them. You also want to add another few inches at the top to wrap around the handles.

The other supplies you’ll need are rawhide, heavy waxed thread, leather or sail needles (depending on the type of material you’re sewing). The handles are made of two straight branches about 3-4 cm (1-1 ½ inches) in diameter, or four boards 3 by 0.5 cm (1 by ¼ inch) by whatever length you decide upon for the width of your bellows. If you use branches, they’ll have to be split lengthwise so that they have a semi-circular cross section. My bellows are about 38 cm (16 inches) wide by 63 cm (25 inches) high.

Using your own measurements, adapt the pattern below, adding about an inch for the seams around the edges, and extra at the top to wrap around the handles.

bellows pattern better

 

You’ll also want loops for your fingers. The loops are more important than you realise. Getting them right will mean the difference between being able to work for hours, and giving up because you keep getting blisters or losing your grip. If you used branches, you might not need loops for your fingers, but I find that they make the bellows far easier to use. The loops are simple, just strips of the same material that your bellows are made from. They should accommodate four fingers on one side and your thumb on the other. Sew them so your hand will be about 1/3 to ¼ of the way from the back of the bellows. Having the loops toward the back means that you don’t have to open your hands as wide. Since I work with kids a lot, this was a consideration when I designed them. Also, I have small hands. The loops will stretch over time, so I periodically have to stitch them again to tighten them up.

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Another useful detail is to sew a small triangle in the front of the bellows, just below the handles. When the bellows open, the little triangle in front will allow the bellows to open in a “V” shape and allow you to trap more air. Holger Lönze taught me this trick. It makes it much easier to open the bellows and get more air in.

The triangular piece in the front. Note that I have stitched it so that the triangle folds inwards so that when I close the bellows it is trapped inside.
The triangular piece in the front. Note that I have stitched it so that the triangle folds inwards so that when I close the bellows it is trapped inside.

 

Another detail to work on is the part at the bottom that sticks out. This is where the tuyere will fit. The size you make that will depend on the tuyere you make, and also how much air you want to push through to the fire. If it’s too little, you’ll be expending a lot of energy pushing air through a small space. Too large and you’ll be pumping furiously to get the volume of air through the tuyere. Mine is about 10 cm (4 inches) and tapers a little so I can fit different tuyeres to it in case I ever want to change it.

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The other supply you’ll need is rawhide. Leather can work, but it isn’t as durable or tight as rawhide. The best source for rawhide I’ve found is the pet shop. Buy a rawhide chew bone for a dog and soak it in a bucket of water overnight. The rawhide will soften and you can untie the ends and unroll a nice sheet of rawhide. I cut it in a spiral while it is still wet so I have long pieces. While it’s wet, you can manipulate it easily. Once it’s dry it shrinks to a hard, tight fit.

Now to assemble the bellows

Cut out the leather or material and then stitch it with the outsides together so that when you turn it inside out, the raw edges will be on the inside. Don’t sew it all the way to the top. You want that extra selvedge to wrap around the handles. Make sure you fit the triangle in the front below the bottom edge of where the handles will be.

The next step was the hardest for me. It’s a bit of a pain. You need to wrap the upper selvedge of the bellows around the sticks and sew them tightly into place. If you’re using half-round branches, make sure the flat sides are on the inside so they meet and make a tight fit. It’s annoying if they wobble around. Sew these in tight along the bottom of the sticks, and then sew the tops together at the back of the bellows so that when you open them, they form a “V”.

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The handles stitched in place. Note how tightly they are sewn at the bottom of the handles

 

 

Turn the bellows right side out and admire your work.

There now, try them out. Try pumping them a bit and see if you can open and close them easily. When the bellows open, the little triangle in front will allow the bellows to open in a “V” shape and allow you to trap more air. The action is to open them while the top of the bellows is close to the ground, Lift them, close them when they are as high as you want to lift them, close the bellows and push down. If you lose your grip, you might want to tighten the loops.

If you feel any air leaks in the seams you can seal them with linseed oil. If you made your bellows from fabric, the easiest way to coat them is to hang them on a clothes line outside and slather the oil on with a paintbrush. It takes a long time to dry and smells pretty strong. It’s definitely something to be done outdoors. Keep in mind that it might take a day or two for the linseed oil to dry.

Now in order to use the bellows, you’ll need at least a short tuyere. If you’re not fussed, a hose or steel tubing from a vacuum cleaner work fine. If you want a more Bronze Age look, you can make them from clay or wood. I took a short branch about 4 cm  (3 inches) in diameter and drilled a hole in it using a 2 cm flat bit (1 ½ inch spade bit in the US). If you don’t have a bit or don’t want to use power tools, take a branch of the right thickness  and split it in half. Carve out the centre and fit them back together.

Fit one end of your tuyere into the opening at the bottom of your bellows. Now take the wet, sloppy rawhide and wrap it tightly around the part of the bellows covering the tuyere, making sure to tie the ends off tightly. If your tuyere is made of split branches, keep wrapping so that it holds the halves of the branch together. Depending on the weather and humidity, it might take several hours for the rawhide to dry.

Once everything is dry, try them out. They’ll be a bit stiff at first and will need to be broken in. It takes a bit of practice to get the Open-Lift-Close-Push rhythm going, especially if you do it alternately with both hands. Once you get into it, it gets easier. Think of a cat kneading its paws. If it helps, rock slightly from side to side.

Another tip is to get some thin willow twigs, about the size used for making baskets. Make them into hoops that will fit inside the bag of your bellows. It will help keep them open, especially if you have a tendency to lift them too high.

Keep in mind that none of this is set in stone. These tutorials are meant to be basic, and are based on the things I’ve done. Experiment. Try different sizes and shapes. Feel free to add bits or change things. Adapt them to yourself. If you want to share your experience with bag bellow making, make a comment to the post here.

 Modifications: Well, you can never have too many bellows, and every time I make a new set, I add in some improvements, or I at least experiment with new ideas. The latest addition is twig rings to keep the leather from collapsing. One of the hazards is that the leather tubes leading from the bellows to the tuyere can collapse or get twisted. One solution is making a spring out of willow, but that can dry out and break after awhile. Another solution is to make a ring that is inserted into the leather tube at the bottom front of the bellows. I took some slender twigs (willow or hazel is ideal, but in this case I used cottonwood) and twisted them into a circle. Then I wrapped them in sinew (string will do too). They can then be inserted into the opening and either glued or sewn into place.

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Woven twig ring inserted into the opening of the bellows. This will keep the leather from collapsing or twisting and keeping the airflow steady.

 

 

 

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